To-day Chongqing is the commercial and industrial hub of southwest China. It has the distinction of being one of the fastest growing cities in the world. Chongqing has a population of fourteen million and it is still growing by the hour.

Our cruise downriver will start here.We arrived by flight late evening. The darkness of the open sky yielded the pleasure of glittering reflections from the city lights. Sweeping illuminations created by automobile traffic and the meandering ferry boats crisscrossing the river gave the impression of a dancing dragon shimmering in the night.

Our driver had trouble locating the pier where we were to embark the vessel. In his attempt to locate the dock, he drove circles around the riverbank where we caught glimpses of dilapidated conditions of the city.

It was hot and humid. Traffic was uncontrolled. Everybody was out on the streets doing something or going somewhere either on foot, on bicycles or motorcycles. The noise was intolerable. It must have been dinner time for some and bedtime for others. Food was everywhere. Some folks have moved their beds into the alleyways and were fanning themselves sultrily. Here and there, the sound of mah jong tiles rose and fell between heated dialogues. I heard loud conversations interspersed with shrill laughter. Small groups of men hovered under fluorescent tubes with newspapers glued to their faces while troupes of children ran around with reckless abandon.

I was relieved when we finally reached the ship. The sea of humanity was too much for me to absorb. I looked forward to the journey tomorrow. Perhaps the river would provide some peace and quiet, allowing a reprieve from the confusion and harshness of the day.